Sunday, September 24, 2023

American HERstory X


  It's been two weeks since I first watched Soft & Quiet.

  I've watched about 15 or 20 movies since then but not a day has gone by where I haven't thought about this movie. And I haven't just had passing thoughts: I've dwelled on it and been distracted by it during other movies, having to snap myself out of the trance. So I watched it two more times.

  This is a tremendous movie but part of its power comes from how deliberately suffocating it is. One critic correctly referred to it as "queasy," which...yeah, it's uncomfortable, that's the point. I appreciate how uneasy this movie is to swallow. In the tradition of someone like William Friedkin, director Beth de Araújo goes for it in terms of eventual violence and it's neither tasteless nor tasteful because this isn't a trashy Lifetime movie nor some palatable White Guilt movie - you either have the stomach for it, or you don't. The first time I watched it I certainly didn't and so I couldn't accurately gauge its pacing because the last 40•ish minutes I had to pause it and take breaks. There are frequent racial slurs, antisemitism, infuriating philosophizing, chilling cruelty, sexual assault, emotional and physical torture, and murder to contend with.

   Soft & Quiet was picked up by Blumhouse, the biggest name in theatrical horror distribution, but it quietly dumped S&Q onto VOD, which stinks of corporate cowardice. I get that it's not easily marketable but TikTok word-of-mouth has done the marketing anyway. Again, I'm reminded of Friedkin, specifically how Disney, via Criterion, took the N-word out of The French Connection, which is more racist (and dangerous) than the actual use of the N-word. What they essentially did was more of the same shit that Ron DeSantis and other Anti-CRT chuds have been doing: sanitizing history. French Connection isn't a racist movie, it's a movie about a racist, but Disney committed a cover-up, absolving him by tampering with the evidence - which is the kind of shit that a racist cop would do. Blumhouse should have made more noise for this movie, especially since it's so fucking well-made (and a debut feature no less!!).

   Not only was it filmed in four takes over four days, but each time they had to painstakingly plan out every shot, lighting change, and blocking while never losing momentum or sunlight. We follow them over three car rides and a boat trip all while the cinematographer, Greta Zozula, is lugging the camera on her shoulder and having to keep things visually fresh while racing the setting sun. There's this gorgeous shot late in the movie where a character stands in front of a window and the colors of the dusky cobalt blue sunset gradient in the background, with the interior orange light in the foreground, is incredibly striking. They either planned for that and executed it perfectly or they took advantage of it on the fly - either way it's remarkable. Shortly after there's a shot where two characters are engulfed by brake lights, so it's just this frightening blood-red flood in the frame.

  I have written so much about how gimmicky and lame long takes are now but S&Q does it 1) for the sake of propulsive kinetic energy 2) without any noticeable digital stitching so 3) everything that unfolds is as naked and tense as possible. It serves a narrative and sensory purpose, it's not a masturbatory exercise in style. The home invasion and all the messy violence that spurts out is inescapable because it's never obscured by time-jumps or cushy surrealism via dream logic. The dialog drives everything in real-time and is so expertly woven in.

  As everything falls apart and escalates, the way these characters talk to each other is nonstop development as resentments and interpersonal dynamics open like blisters and some oozing surprises dribble out. The breathless endurance of the performances is exhausting and engrossing, especially Olivia Luccardi's character Lesley (who echoes Fairuza Balk's character from American History X). She's a wildcard of cruelty, opportunism, and cunning manipulation who escalates everything until everyone is hysterically turning on each other (more on her later). Watching the chaos of in-fighting and sloppy ineptitude isn't funny by any means (comedy as a genre might as well be on the moon in this case) but there's a thick air of self-destructive pitifulness; these women aren't just hateful but pathetic and desperate, which makes them scarier. The real-time aspect isn't just about watching them commit their acts of barbarity but showing the cover-up mines a lot of tension too. Not just because, for them, it's the suspense of worrying they're not gonna get away with it. But, for us, it's hopelessly sickening watching them cover their tracks. It's almost like getting a glimpse into the potential night of Tamla Horsford's death, which isn't deliberate at all but it was on my mind for most of the final act.

  The racist banter between these pie-baking wine-Mom Karens and yoga pants-clad Beckies strikes a perfect balance: It could easily be laid on too thick or downplayed to make them 'sympathetic,' but it's never didactic or sanitized. Even with that meticulous care for her script (built by extensive research, cultural osmosis, and traumatic life experience) people refuse to give de Araújo her flowers or, hell, her agency. I'll chalk it up to them being uninformed.

   Most critiques of Soft & Quiet are dismissive and uncharitable: "Why was this made?" and/or "we don't need this, especially for people of color," over and over those sentiments kept popping up. 

  I'm gonna field the question as if it's not rhetorical, "Why was this made?" well, writer/Director Beth de Araújo said this scenario is her worst nightmare - thankfully she lived it through her art rather than in real life. Saying it offers nothing to people of color is nearsighted considering she's a woman of color (Chinese and Brazilian) who, in the wake of asian people being viciously attacked on the street, needed a creative outlet. The director herself is saying "this shit scares me" but her immersive art therapy is rejected as 'unnecessary'?

  Let's put Soft & Quiet up against the polar opposite: Victor Salva, a director convicted for molesting young boys, made Jeepers Creepers 2, a horror movie about young boys who are left helpless at the mercy of a flying, unstoppable monster known as The Creeper. Said Creeper picks off all of the adults and then takes its time choosing young boys to victimize. It couldn't be more sickeningly obvious that this is wish-fulfillment. So we have two horror movies where one is made by someone terrified of her nightmares coming true and the other is made by someone whose wet dreams are nightmarish. And I make that juxtaposition because it's important to unpack authorship; the art is so integral to the specific artist making it. Ever since #MeToo the debate of 'separating the art from the artist' has been exhaustively unpacked but after reading reviews for Soft & Quiet a question no one has asked manifested: does that apply to victims' art as well...?

   Look back a few years: The Handmaid's Tale, The Invisible Man, The Assistant, and Don't Worry Darling, all stories where white women have been centered when it comes to media about power dynamics and abuse. Don't Worry Darling is the bottom of the barrel for many reasons but mainly because its only woman of color is reduced to a plot device and sacrificial negro to propel our white heroine. It's a thankless role but it's just par for the course with White Feminist myopia. Handmaid's Tale is no better: it's hailed as this great Dystopian Feminist show but it just shows white women being treated like black women were during slavery. In fact, the white women are treated worse than the black women on the show, so it truly is science fiction. It's the closest they could get to roleplaying misogynoir without wearing actual Blackface.

  I remember after the very first Women's March in 2017 there were scores of women of color talking about their experiences, about how they didn't feel included, that sentiments about Black Lives Matter or Human Rights Violations at the border were treated with contempt, among others. And the backlash was white women eschewing apologies in favor of saying "we don't need to talk about that," cuz they would rather One Size Fits All than unpack the uncomfortable intricacies of intersectionality. Same thing happened when Roe v. Wade was overturned: women of color wanted to talk about how they had much more difficult times getting the services they needed for abortions, but White Women shot them down with the same condescending "we're all in this together" bullshit. Their tone had the insulting "time-and-place" snark even though the time and place is a continuum.

   I remember back during the George Floyd protests in 2020 there was a growing sentiment bolstered by CNN that "if we're going to reform police, we need to hire more women." It's a level of out-of-touch delusion that's downright staggering. Consider Officer Amber Guyger's home invasion and execution of Botham Jean. Not to mention Officer Lacy Browning responding to a mental wellness check leading to her pressing her foot into Mona Wang's neck, pulling her hair, and dragging her across the floor face-down. There are also the Karens who wield the police as their own personal attack dogs to intimidate people of color (or worse) for barbequing, bird-watching, dog-walking, or just... existing.

 Representation is important and that goes for monsters, too, especially since, for some, portraying something cinematically is more legitimizing than what's on the news or social media.

  Thankfully, Jordan Peele did that with Get Out, and it was specifically 102 years in the making.

  D.W. Griffith's Ku Klux Klan propaganda film, BIRTH OF A NATION, shows a white damsel running from a monstrous black man (played by a white man in blackface) intent to harm her - the Klan show up and 'heroically' save her from this 'Black Devil.' That was 1915 and it kicked off a CENTURY of harmful imagery portraying black men as lustful, violent, white-women-obsessed animals. 102 years later, Get Out finally shows a black man's hands on a white woman's throat and it's not only 100% justified but it's a satisfying, stand-up-and-cheer moment.

  Curiously, though: Chris stops. He looks scared... because this lady is SMILING.

  As it starts to dawn on Rose that she's gonna die, she fucking smiles at Chris and it's an EVIL fucking grin. It's not explicitly spelled out _why_ she smiles but it can be interpreted so many ways. My guess is, from her warped, racist perspective, she's reveling in watching 'his true nature' come out. She's willing to die, out of spite, to 'prove' he's just like the Black Devil from Birth Of A Nation. OR she's imagining Chris going down for her 'murder' because she knows the courts won't believe his fantastical story about racial brain-swapping. Rose knows the marks on her neck will tell the story for her, regardless of the truth - even from the grave she can control the power dynamic. But soon after this, Peele plays with expectations and perspective when we see red and blue police lights. Usually this would mean rescue... in a white horror movie. Chris is logically terrified while Rose typically reaches out for help; she knows a cop will fall for her angelic sham. It's a great moment of tension because Peele makes Chris, and us, sit for an agonizing few seconds because he knows we're thinking about what the cops THINK they saw: a black man on top of a white woman with his hands on her neck - with no context whatsoever. Thankfully, this is a fake-out: it's Rod and he doesn't question Chris' actions once because he's not just Chris' friend, he knows exactly what he saw: self-defense. So in the case of Soft & Quiet, de Araújo centers white women for the very first time not as victims but as monsters, to challenge other media that never questioned white women's complicity in racism and the patriarchy. It's a whole eat•pray•love Book Club of Roses.

   Female White Supremacists are usually balanced out by white female allies (for every racist Bryce Dallas Howard in The Help, there's an Emma Stone to the rescue, her saintly actions silently saying Not All White Women). There's one woman who initially dissents but the other women gently harp on her racial biases and nurture them, after some alcohol and comfort in solidarity it's not long before she hurtles toward full-on hatred.

  There are few male characters but they're included in really subversive ways. The most innocent one being a little boy, no older than 10. He's alone, waiting for his Mom to pick him up from school. Emily, his teacher and the movie's ringleader, is shown early on in despair that she can't have kids, so she takes advantage of the fact that he's alone and lightly grooms him. She instructs him to publicly insult a Latina custodian, shows him a swastika in a pie she's been holding, and tells him about a children's book she's writing (we never see what's in the book but it's not hard to imagine). It's stomach-churning shit.

  There's another moment where the Ladies' first meeting is cut short by a Preacher at the church they've gathered at. He'd heard some of their hateful dreck and doesn't mince words about kicking them out. Emily initially balks in defiance so he deepens his tone and pushes back - she begrudgingly gives in. He made her feel powerless and, coming off the dopamine rushes of grooming her student and indoctrinating the more sheepish woman in her meeting, she hones in on her next target: her husband.

  This is where Emily's character really comes to life, in the worst ways. They're all gearing up to commit a hate crime but he tries to sober them up. And I'm not gonna give him too much credit: he's hesitant purely for the sake of self-preservation. He's just as much a bigot as they are but his vision isn't as clouded as theirs in this moment so he tries to tell them what obvious repercussions are on the horizon. Emily is insulted and disgusted, because he's not willing to participate that somehow makes him "weak". So she uses toxic masculinity to bend him to her will; venomously emasculating him, calling him a "Faggot," and the other women join in with utterances of "man up." He gives in and helps them but he never loses that foresight, even with simmering resentment and panic practically glowing under his skin. The most telling moment is, after they've gotten to the house, they're hiding because their victims come home early. He starts to panic and berate her so Emily viciously slaps him and even denies him his need to cry. Almost like a jumpscare he starts to slap himself over and over, taking out the anger he feels toward her on himself, it's not just startling in the moment but we can glean so much of their history from these few scenes.

  Like, maybe she projects onto him her inability to get pregnant and so it manifests into outright abuse, nitpicking any sign of weakness as confirmation bias, and using that to cut him down and mold him. He's certainly susceptible if the right buttons are pushed but he's also not stupid so he fucks off from the narrative altogether. Emily is left to fend for herself and Lesley is the one to take advantage and extort her. From then on Emily does everything that Lesley barks at her and is brought back to the despair from earlier.

   So much is said on the whole about indoctrination, power dynamics, racism, toxic masculinity, gender politics, and entitlement. Unlike most one-dimensional racist characters who are usually deprived of characterization through subtractive cliches and stereotypes, our hateful leads are layered and compelling without being sympathetic. Not once does it ever half-heartedly preach about racism nor absolve its racists by having them learn some contrived lesson(s). It also doesn't give us any immediate satisfaction in seeing them punished, either. One of the top reviews on Letterboxd complains that we never see them die after all that they've done; Inglourious Basterds this is not. 

  Comeuppance and redemption arcs are both barred at the door because racism isn't solved easily. 

  So, do we "need this"? Well, I can't speak to what anyone else needs but I'll say that, as a culture, we've never been shown a movie like this. So I'll ask: If we don't need this, what's the alternative? Most media that 'challenges' Neo Nazis are usually pretty fucking toothless (Jojo Rabbit) vehicles for self-congratulations. Soft & Quiet has teeth but self-righteous neoliberals don't like being confronted with ideology that makes them uncomfortable. Instead, they opt for being spoonfed reassurances that they're good people and mock individuals rather than understand them, especially when confronted with a mirror like this that isn't designed for virtue signaling sentiment, rather the notion that they're the real villains deep down.

  I hate Misery Porn just as much as the next person but this is a tour of an artist's anxieties, a cinematic coping mechanism, not tragedy-as-cheap-spectacle. If you don't like it based on technical aspects or if it makes you uncomfortable---for whatever reasons---fine, critique it, but don't call into question its 'merit' for existing. If a filmmaker uses their art to heal, more power to them, and [SPOILERS] based on the ending I'm confident that She needed this.

  "In order to empathize with someone’s experience you must be willing to believe them as they see it and not how you imagine their experience to be." – Brené Brown

Wednesday, September 13, 2023

Psychotronic SpookShow


Psy-cho-tron-ic
  def. denoting or relating to a genre of movies, typically with a science fiction, horror, or fantasy theme, that were made on a low budget and received poorly by critics. 


I know what I like. When I go down the rabbit hole it turns into a warren with many off beaten paths. Jess Franco, Jean Rollin, 70's and 80's exploitation, silent horror, Roger Corman productions, Val Lewton productions, Hammer, horror flicks from Japan, Italy and Spain, Paul Naschy, Universal Monsters. A constant thoughline connecting all of these is a mood. Be it gothic or grungy. The fog rolls in over the moors as a line of torches light our way. 

I know what I don't like. The slasher craze of the 80's, the new slashers of the late 90's, the new new slasher of the 20's.*

As I go through this season each year, the watchlist gets broader as my taste becomes more defined. There's just so many wells to draw from. Home Video has unlocked all of these burning desires. 

So I concocted a blanket term. Psychotronic is good but that also entails the genre of sci-fi and fantasy. Spook Show puts a magnifying glass on the horror aspect of the term. Plus, it cuts to the core of the vibes I want I want to be sending out. 



*some exceptions do apply

Wednesday, September 6, 2023

Where I Get My Coffee

I've never been to Ethiopia, Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Kenya, Burundi, Costa Rica, or any other country the coffee I consume is produced. Nor have I been to the majority of coffee roasters that roast the beans from these countries. With the exception of local roasters like Intelligentsia and Metric Coffee. 

There's a wide open field of options to find great coffee out there. Hopefully, this list will be map out the terrain. 
 






Black and White
Location: North Carolina
Want to be on the more adventurous side? Black and White's experimental processed coffees always offer fascinating results. Their tasting notes on the bags range from gummy bears to pixie stix. 
If you feel like getting something to start out, I'd point you in the direction of their Anaerobic Washed process coffees as they are consistently delicious. 

One such coffee I've been drinking from them is their Wilder Lasso Lemon Gesha. The coffee cherries first go through anaerobic fermentation. It is submerged in mucilege for 200 hours before being pulped. Second, the coffee is re-fermented in the sun with indigenous lemon peel for 18 days. Adding a resulting taste of limeade to the coffee.




Coffee Circulor
Location: Norway
This was the first roaster I ordered from outside the country because of all the hype I heard. At first I was overwhelmed because of how diverse and large their selection was. When I received the order, they did something I never had another roaster do- they included a couple of samples (20g each) of coffees to try out. 

Corvus Coffee
Location: Denver, Colorado
Their exotic and reserve coffees are always a treat if you save up enough to get one. Their standard offerings have sometimes underwhelmed. 


Heart
Location: Portland, Oregon
A coffee I tried for the first time was one of their Ethiopian lots and it delighted me with its tropical fruitiness. 


Ilse 
Location: North Canaan, Connecticut
Out of the coffee roasters I've tried in New England, Ilse is hands down the best. I currently have a Colombian Gesha from them thas has jammy sweetness and flavors of limeade. 



Intelligentsia
Location: Chicago, Illinois and California
My journey into the whole coffee scene starts here. Their coffee quality has taken a bit of a hit in recent years compared to others on this list. It's still a shop I find myself in once a week to see what they are up to. 



Metric
Location: Chicago, Illinois

Their coffees I would rate slightly higher than Intelligentsia even though I've had less from them. They have one shop/roastery in Chicago compared to Intelligentsia's 4 locations. Making it harder to sample from them. It's entirely worth it every time I make the trip though. 



Onyx 
Location: Arkansas

A popular roaster whose baristas have competed in World Barista Championships. Word around the campfire is Onyx isn't the same Onyx of a few years ago, when they would produce stunning lot after stunning lot. Now it's a roaster who I will check in on occasionally to see what's brewin'. 

Passenger
Location: Lancaster, Pennsylvania
My favorite coffee roaster. I have yet to have a bad or even okay cup from them. The quality ranges from good to excellent. What makes them unique is they freeze many of their previous years coffee beans. As a result, their selection is bigger than most roasters on this list. Except Manhattan.

Sey
Location: Brooklyn, New York
A roaster whose coffee is best enjoyed 2 weeks from the roast date. They will even recommend this to you on their boxes. I've only had one coffee from Sey- a washed Ethiopia- but it blew me away.

Mistobox
A subscription service I've been a part of for the past few years gives me coffee from around the country every few weeks. They can sometimes send me a mediocre coffee, but for the most part, their curating has been on point. 






Sunday, September 3, 2023

The Work of Adam Curtis

Why am I feeling the way I am feeling?  

Documentaries are an aesthetic I can't get enough of. When they're well made. Some of my favorite filmmakers work in this very field. Werner Herzog, Errol Morris, The Maysles, Michael Moore are just as exciting to watch as Soderbergh or Fincher. 

About six years ago, the docs of Rodney Ascher took hold of me. The theories of The Shining, sleep paralysis, the Screen Gems logo are some of the subjects he focuses on. Ascher injected life into these subjects. It felt like a fresh and invigorating way of documentary storytelling. The same way I felt when I first watched a doc from Errol Morris or the Maysle brothers. 

I stumbled onto this documentary being praised on Letterboxd, It Felt Like A Kiss. I watched the trailer and it stuck out. There were no talking heads. This was a good thing. It told the story of America's rise to power starting in 1959. There was a dread built up during the 54 minute runtime. Beneath the pop music selections were death, chaos. There's no timelines, actors or script. Jut archival footage cut together with text moving the story along from one parallel to the next. 

For my money, Curtis' documentaries are some of the most exciting art to come out lately. The more I dug, the better it got. Then I got to his 6 part docuseries Can't Get You Out of My Head: An Emotional History of the World. 




Collages are something I dig mucho. Well timed needle drops are transcendent when the editor is able to properly juxtapose image and music. When a montage flows beautifully, it's intoxicating to watch. Add to this, Curtis' narration on whatever topic he is addressing. What you get is something I've been wanting to see pulled off but haven't. Most of the montages I've seen are film centric. Some are pop culture. History, specifically 20th century history is something that has provided a bounty of interest. Bennett Media's montages of the 70s, 80s and 90s were the closest I've seen anyone come to encapsulating the feel of a time through montage and music. If we're talking about narrative features, 
Oliver Stone's JFK and Nixon come to mind. Curtis manages to take all of this one step further. He takes it into journalism. 

The subtitle of Curtis' doc is An Emotional History of the World. We have gone from a confident self to an uncofident self. Riddled with anxiety, fear and uncertainty about the future. If you were going to explain this, the exaplanation would involve what is going on in people's heads just as much as hat is going on in the society around them. Behavorial scientists like Daniel Kahneman are just as prescient as social movements. 

Why am I feeling the way I'm feeling? At the heart of Curtis' documentary, he attempts an answer. 

Adam Curtis is interested in the conflict of individualism and collectivism. We are living in the most individualistic time in history. We have a distrust of each other and those in power. Because of this distrust, we have become more invested in individual wealth than what is good for society. 

In an interview with Mark Kermode and Simon Mayo about the documentary, Curtis explains the organizing principle between all of the footage and historical figures he uses is "what happens to people when they are acted upon by powerful ideas from outside them. The tension between the forces outside us and what happens when those forces get inside our heads is the dynamic of our time."  An example of this is his take on conspiracy theories. Jim Garrison's theory of Time and Propinquity states that you can never know what power is doing because it is too hidden. So what you have to look for are patterns, links and coincidences. The internet oday has people scrolling hrough it searching for patterns. What Curtis argues is that we don't have any logical meanings any longer. What we have now are patterns.

The documentaries introduce me to a whole smorgasboard of songs. The Mekons' Where Were You?, This Mortal Coil Till I Gain Control Again, Song For Zula by Phosphorescent, You Are the Generation That Bought More Shoes by Johnny Boy and a bunch more. Then you have the soundtracks to The Thing, The Fog, Poltergeist, Starman and Carrie being used. When you couple the archive footage to this music while Curtis' narration is going on, the result is euphoric. It's akin to how I feel watching GoodFellas or Casino or Boogie Nights. It's just banger after banger and makes you buy everything that's being said.

He's made a doc on technology with All Watched Over By Machine of Grace. Examined theories of human desire and how they're applied to platforms such as advertising, consumerism and politics with the multipart doc The Century of Self. His latest effort is Russia 1985-1999: TraumaZone, which documents the collapse of communism and democracy in Russia and finds Curtis dispensing with narrative voiceover altogether in favor of simply presenting archival footage. 





Friday, September 1, 2023

Seventeen Twenty Three

 My stage at Alinea

I had arrived at what looked like an suite of offices. Looking down at my phone I scanned the address: 1723 N. Halsted St. This has to be the location. I walked past the building and looked down an alley. A man carrying a chef's uniform walked through a side entrance. From the exterior, Alinea was already defying the expectation from what a restaurant looks like. Even the fancier fine dining, Michelin starred restaurants around Chicago had the glassy windows to look in. The thought had occurred to me before I had even applied to the job but now seeing the building first hand: this was no ordinary fine dining restaurant. 

I first heard about Alinea through watching a video of a desert plating on youtube. It was unlike anything I had seen. They were literally splaying it out on the table in front of the guests. They began by taking a chocolate ball and placing it in the center. They then proceeded to take several ramekins of different sauces and seasonings and 'painted' the table with them. It was an edible Pollock. After the sauces were finished, they took the spoon with which they spread out the sauces and crack open the chocolate ball unveiling a feast of white chocolate goodness inside. It was interactive. It was gastronomy. It was fun.

Researching the restaurant further led me to find out it was the highest rated restaurant in not just my state, but in the entire country. It maintained three Michelin stars for 12 consecutive years from its opening in 2005 up until now. To add some context, only 14 restaurants in the U.S. have the coveted 3 star rating. 

Alinea means the beginning the first sentence on a new line. The approach the restaurant takes to cuisine follows suit. They rip apart the restaurant experience and put it back together. What the staff try to evoke encompasses all of the senses and evokes emotion. Take for instance, one of their more famous specialty deserts, the edible helium balloon. The balloon is made of inverted sugar and flavored with fruit essences. The chef then pumps helium into the mixture. A string made of green apple poached in concord grape is attached to the base and served to the customers. The customer can suck in the helium and make their voice sound extra high pitched. It's playful. It's fun. 

The decision to apply there came from the need to challenge myself. There was a stasis with where I was at and I wanted to disrupt it. The position I applied for through Indeed was Food Runner and, to my surprise, got a reply back. There was an Open House Call for new applicants at one of Alinea's family restaurants, the Roister. One of three they subsequently opened through the years. I dressed appropriately for the interview and took an Uber. 

The anxiety and over preparedness I did paid off. The interviewer told me that the interview process is two fold. The first is them interviewing me. The second if me interviewing them through staging. Do I have the passion and drive to want to work here? Am I ready to commit 110% to this place? 

The interviewer gave me her card, a dress code for the stage and a login key to access learning modules regarding food safety and alchohol. All told, the tests took about 3 hours to complete. 

I spent considerable time on youtube looking at just about very video regarding Alinea I could. I searched past experiences on staging on Reddit. Having expedited and ran food at Olive Garden, I looked at Alinea's expedite process in a video. The expedite process is basically the air traffic controller of a restaurant. You make sure the correct food goes to the correct table at the right time. 

Looking at the way Alinea does it, I noticed they don't use screens to read the tickets. Everything is paper and color coded. If, for example, a ticket is in orange, it means a restriction such as food allergy. If a table has a birthday, they make a note of it on the ticket. Any good expedite knows timing is everything. They'll know if a table had a dish for 10 minutes when it really takes 5 minutes to eat. If the guest is doing a wine pairing, they add extra time to every single course for the sommelier to go out, put the glasses down and pour the wine. 

I even looked at the possibilities of dining there myself. The restaurant pricing is as such: 

    -The Salon: $315-385 per person 
    -The Gallery: $425-485 per person 
    -Kitchen Table: $495 per person (minimum 4-6 people) 

After which, a wine pairing is offered. The standard pairing is $155, the Reserve is $245 and The Alinea pairing is $395. If I were to just get the Salon with a Standard pairing, the cost is $663. Without the wine pairing we're looking at $455. A man can dream. 

It was the day of the stage. I dressed appropriately and took the Metra and transferred to the Red Line to take me down to North/Clybourn. 

Going down the alley to enter the building, I saw the liquid nitrogen tank outside with which they use for their dessert course. A skinny, tattooed chef was exiting and I let him know I was here for a stage. As I walked in, I heard someone whisper "Faster". My nerves went off like a fireworks display. What I read on reddit about how hard it was to work at Alinea was being confirmed with a single word and I only just walked through the door. How the hell was I going to get through this? 

Walking through the immaculately clean kitchen to a room they call The Gallery, I was seated at a table and told the manager will be with me shortly.

Faster.

A drawer was built into the wall with one slightly sticking out. The contrast in hindsight wasn't much but sitting there, it looked significant. Don't be the drawer sticking out. Conform. 

There was dadaist artwork on the walls, buckets measured apart from each other where the keep the iced champagne. Along the wall was a staircase that curved upward. Voices boomed from above. A man wearing casual clothes and glasses approached me and asked who I was waiting for and I told him the manager. After this, the manager took me upstairs and into the room they called The Salon. 

He was frank and concise about what it is they do. "A good number of people end up not working out because they are not 100% fully invested. Nobody in this restaurant is here as a means to get by and go onto the next gig. They are all here because they are passionate about the restaurant industry. They see it as a career."

It was what I needed to hear. Did I want to pursue the career of being in the service industry? This is what he was asking. Up to this point, I had already devoted 7 years to it. All the videos, the fancy deserts, the gastronomy meant nothing if there wasn't passion behind it. The question of travel was brought up. Being that I commute to the city from the southwest suburbs, this posed a significant problem. I mentioned my commuting situation. He laid out a timetable: Start at 2pm. Doors open at 5 pm. Leave at around 1245 to 1 am. This meant, were I to land the job, I would finish at around 1 am, take the red line back, this time to the end of the line at 95th because the Metra doesn't run past 1 am, and then transfer to the Orange Line to get to a bus to take me home. A two hour round trip to and from work. Be in bed by 2:30 am. Wake up at 10 am to do it all over again. I could see living in the city was mandatory if you wanted to work here. How else would anyone be able to make it?

After the sit down, I was handed over to my follow. A nice Pakistani who would fill me in on all the details of my job. I was given a chef suit. About 5 minutes later, the daily meeting to go over reservations was to take place. All servers, hosts, captains, sommeliers, and managers gathered into the room as the head host went over who the plan for the day. Anyone who was of note or importance was mentioned in the reservations. After the plan for the day was done one of the managers said "We have a stage today." 

I was asked what my favorite karaoke song was "Peter Gabriel's Sledgehammer" and what my favorite candy was "Sour Skittles". After the bits of trivia the room broke up into sections. Each section run by a captain who went over what the team they were in charge of could improve. The team members I was with suggested always making sure the guest' glass was full with water while another mentioned signaling for a finished table to be reprepped and reset accordingly and in a timely manner. 

I can count on one hand the number of time I had a team meeting with the restaurant I work at. It isn't fine dining so to expect the type of excellence from it can be a bit much. But sitting through this meeting, I thought to myself: "Is it really much to expect?" Everyone was on the same plane in the room. There was no manager meeting that excluded servers. The managers weren't sitting down to have a meal and talk while servers worked around them. The impact on morale was palpable and it only continued in the group meal. 

The food they had prepared for the group meal was fantastic. The servers and expediter were all seated at a table in the Salon. I listened intently. Talk about Game of Thrones and Lord of the Rings. One discussion about the hospitality of Hooters between two servers. Uncle Nick was spoken of. Nick Kokanos, the co-owner of the restaurant was, according to the information at the table, currently on a vacation in Spain. 

When the meal wrapped up, my trainer showed me through the kitchen and downstairs to where the cleaning supplies is kept and the locker room. From a geographic standpoint, the Salon lead right into the kitchen. In the walkway between the two, there was a single table behind glass. The most exclusive (and expensive) table in the restaurant. He'd take me to each room and tell me about the positions where I was to stand. In the Salon, he went through the table numbers and the way servers come out of the kitchen. It can be compared to choreography. The servers are in a line and when the first course is served, they come out and go to their designated table. They drop the plate and share information about the dish in front of the guest. 

He went through the courses:

Caviar
Charred
Turbot
Thai
India
Lamb
Turf Surf
Japan (this couse was for the Gallery and Kitchen Table)
Beef
Paint

The table where we had our team meal now had plates being polished by a server, while another server was rolling towels. My trainer gave me a task to take several small trays, put in a light and fill it with scented nuts. We divided them between ourselves. I kept thinking to myself, I never would have hough of doing something like his at my resaurant, but again, this was Alinea. At the end of the task he told me about closing work. After every shift, we are given a list of tasks to perform. He broke it down to me and showed me where all the supplies were to do them. It was 15 minutes to 5 pm which was when doors opened. For my stage I would follow my trainer into the Salon and Gallery and position myself at the assigned point in the room to observe. After the server plated the table, I would return to doing two tasks. 

The first task was standing by the stairs and making sure the people coming down or up had clearence so they would not bump into anyone as they hold their tray of food. I'd use hand signals for this. The second task was to wipe down each tray of food the server brought down any bring any remaining glassware or silverware to the dishwashing room.


"Chefs, DOORS!" the expediter shouted. The chefs in the kitchen all shouted DOORS in unison. 

Service began.

The restaurant's limited capacity slowly filled up. I watched the bustle of the kitchen and the chefs concocting intricate food art. I followed my trainer through the Gallery and stopped at the Stage position I was instructed to stop at. What looked to be blackened mangos hung from the ceiling by strings. 

I observed the first course- Caviar- and went back to the kitchen. I've never had caviar, a food almost exclusively reserved for the middle to upper class considering how expensive it is. The Kitchen Table had two black bottles in the middle of it. I asked a server what they were and in a response loaded with sarcasm, "I believe they are sanitizer bottles." It was a sting of embarrasment which dovetailed to self flagellation. Of course those are sanitizer bottles. In hindsight, it shouldn't have been so obvious. I've never seen a restaurant provide them for each table.



I followed my trainer upstairs toward the Salon and was told to wait in the hallway connecting two rooms. The sommelier was preparing a bottle of wine at the top of the stairwell when a server pulled me aside  and told me about the timing of when to enter a room. Timing and coordination was something I continued to see pulled off masterly. 

Whenever there was time to help clean off trays and empty the contents in the dishwashing room, I did it. I had hope this would shown I was capable of taking initiative and one of the new servers told me just that. Once again I was thinking to myself only at Alinea as a glass skull was on the tray where the contents of the food were once placed inside the eyes. 

At one point I was in the Gallery standing in my stage position and watched the captain take one of theblack balls hanging from the ceiling down while another team member wheeled an antique potato skinning machine out. 


"It's time for paint." said my trainer. In any other environment I would have looked at my trainer like he had two heads, but knowing Paint was what the menu titled desert, I anticipated something special. I was in the Gallery and I noticed a chef in the middle of the stairwell. A line of chefs waited from the kitchen area. Queen's Don't Stop Me Now began and the chef on the stairwell came around to each table and sprinkled strawberry dust on each table. When the "Having a good time" section of the song started, the chefs came out and started plating the table with ramekens of sauces and creams. Each table looked like a Picasso of sugary filled goodness. Then, each chef brought out a nitrogen frozen brick of milk chocolate, placed it in the center of each table and smacked it with their spoon, crumbling the pieces onto the table. 

The Kitchen Table got the same treatment only the song was Ghetto Superstition.

The floor manager pulled me aside as it was the end of my stage. He was middle aged, sported chestnut hair and had an Irish accent. 

We went outside and I was taken to an office in back. I was asked how everything went and what I thought of my experience. I told him how different it was from my experience at Olive Garden. On just about every level. The way the kitchen operated. The guest experience. How everyone was in sync with one another to prepare the best meal they could for their guests. 

The problem of transportation came up. Making it non sensical for me to take a job where 2 hours would be devoted just to me getting to and from the location. 

The experience of watching a restaurant take apart a food and put it back together to fool the eyes but to cause the other two senses- smell and taste- to unlock nostalgic bliss on the part of the guest was something, even from on the outside looking in, I will not soon forget.